فصلنامه علمی کارافن

فصلنامه علمی کارافن

آشنایی‌زدایی و نقش آن در شکل‌گیری تفاوت پوشاک، لباس، مُد و مُد پایدار

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی (نظری)

نویسنده
گروه هنر،دانشکده هنر، دانشگاه اراک، اراک،ایران
چکیده
در زندگی روزمره اشیاء و امورات، به‌مرورزمان عادی می‌شوند و آشنایی‌زدایی، راهی به ایجاد تغییر می‌گشاید. مسئلۀ این پژوهش این است که آشنایی‌زدایی در تغییر ماهیتی پوشاک به لباس، مُد و مُد پایدار چه نقشی دارد و هدف پژوهش، روشن کردن شگردهای آشنایی‌زدایی در صنعت پوشاک، لباس و مد است. روش این پژوهش از باب اهداف، توسعه‌ای- کاربردی است. داده‌ها به روش اسنادی- کتابخانه‌ای گردآوری‌شده و به روش توصیفی- تحلیلی بررسی‌شده‌اند. در حوزه پوشاک، لباس و مد، آشنایی‌زدایی در سه سطح نمود پیدا می‌کند. در لایه اول از سطح اول یعنی سطح زبانی، از پوشاک آشنایی‌زدایی شده و لباس ظهور می‌یابد. در لایه دوم؛ از اصول و قواعد طراحی لباس که به امور آشنا تبدیل‌شده‌اند آشنایی‌زدایی شده و طرح‌های آوانگارد لباس ایجاد می‌شوند. در لایه سوم؛ از بعد هنری لباس آشنایی‌زدایی شده و لباس با سایر علوم پیوند می‌خورد. در سطح مفهومی، تفاوت مُد با لباس روشن می‌شود. در سطح سوم از نظریه‌ها، قراردادها و اصول مُد که برای مردم تمام فرهنگ‌ها با طبقات اجتماعی مختلف، کاملاً عادی است، آشنایی‌زدایی شده و به‌این‌ترتیب جنبش مُد پایدار ظهور می‌یابد. رهیافت این پژوهش نشان می‌دهد که در سطوح مختلف آشنایی‌زدایی، ارزش‌های متفاوتی شکل می‌گیرند. در سطح اول، ارزش دانش باعث تفاوت لباس از پوشاک می‌شود؛ در سطح دوم، ارزش اجتماعی دلیل شکل‌گیری مد است و در سطح سوم، ارزش اخلاقی اهمیت پیدا می‌کند. آشنایی‌زدایی مبتنی است بر «خلاقیت» و هدف از آن، ایجاد یک «ارزش» جدید است. ارزش‌ها مبنای تمایز بنیادین پوشاک، لباس، مد و مد پایدار هستند.
کلیدواژه‌ها
موضوعات

عنوان مقاله English

Defamiliarization and Its Role in the Formation of Differences Between Clothing, Dress, Fashion, and Sustainable Fashion

نویسنده English

Maryam Molazadeh
Art Department, Art faculty, Arak University, Arak, Iran.
چکیده English

In everyday life, objects and practices become normalized; defamiliarization offers a transformative pathway. This study explores the role of defamiliarization in the ontological shift from clothing to dress, fashion, and ultimately sustainable fashion. Its goal is to clarify how defamiliarization functions across these domains. Methodologically, the research is applied-developmental, using documentary and library methods, analyzed through a descriptive-analytical lens. Defamiliarization emerges in three layers. At the linguistic level, clothing is defamiliarized and reinterpreted as dress, introducing epistemic value. The second layer involves disrupting conventional dress design principles, resulting in avant-garde forms that reflect social value. The third layer, at the conceptual-artistic level, defamiliarizes dominant norms of fashion, connecting it with scientific fields and highlighting ethical value. Here, the boundary between fashion and dress becomes clear, and a shift toward sustainable fashion occurs—marked by new norms and ethical frameworks. Each layer of defamiliarization introduces distinct values: epistemic (dress vs. clothing), social (emergence of fashion), and ethical (rise of sustainable fashion). Creativity is the core of this process, generating values that redefine and distinguish clothing, dress, fashion, and sustainable fashion.

کلیدواژه‌ها English

Clothing
Dress
Fashion
Sustainable fashion
Defamiliarization
Viktor Shklovsky
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دوره 22، شماره 4
کشاورزی / هنر و معماری
زمستان 1404
صفحه 270-296

  • تاریخ دریافت 04 بهمن 1403
  • تاریخ بازنگری 29 تیر 1404
  • تاریخ پذیرش 06 مهر 1404